Xi'ning, Qinghai Province

Xining, capital of Qinhai province, was once a major stop on the Silk Road's southern route. Today it is one of the poorest provincial capitals in China, and has few sites of real interest to offer a tourist in the city itself. Yet some worthwhile excursions begin there.

TA'ER TEMPLE
Ta'er Temple, also known as the "Pagoda Lamasery," is one of China's largest Buddhist temples, and a sacred place of the "Yellow Sect of Tibetan Lamaism." Located in Lushaer, to the southwest of Xining, the temple is still used for worship by "Yellow Sect" believers.

Lamaism took root in Tibet in the seventh century as a new form of Buddhism. Over the centuries that followed, numerous sects developed. In the 15th century, a well-known Lama called Zongkaba founded a new reformed sect, which strictly observed Buddhist precepts. His followers were easily identified by their hats, hence the derivation of the name "Yellow (Hat) Sect." Their influence grew to such an extent that they eventually became the ruling sect in Tibet. They were also granted the patronage of the Ming and Qing courts, who built a grand "Yellow Sect" lamasery called "Yong He Palace" in Beijing.

Since Zhongkaba was born in Lushaer, numerous pagodas were built there to commemorate him. In 1560, a small lamasery was built around the pagodas. The lamasery was expanded over the centuries into a magnificent lamasery, which ranks closely in importance with the Dazhao Lamasery in Lhasa. There are many prayer halls, pagodas and priceless works of art such as sutras, porcelain from the 13th century, collections of embossed embroideries, carpets and superb statues.